Back in August, my sister and I took a trip to California wine country, choosing Healdsburg as our base of operations. Great choice, as it turned out: lots of restaurants, shops, and tasting rooms were within walking distance of our hotel.

On Friday, while ambling around downtown, we stumbled upon the tasting room for Martha Stoumen Wines. I had tasted a couple of her wines before, at NIU Wine, a natural wine bar and café in downtown Miami, and was curious to learn more about her wines and the creative impulses that bring them to life.

Tucked into a row of shops on the main drag, its welcoming vibe drew us in – everything about this place was relaxing and comfortable. So of course we chose a sidewalk table and plopped down for some tasty treats and libations!

Speaking of treats . . . we loved the self-serve doggie treat bar just outside the tasting room door. Our sidewalk table offered a front-row view to the parade of humans strolling by with their fur babies, most of whom knew the drill: step on the big button and wait (impatiently) for your biscuit to be delivered!

Lucky for us, we didn’t have to work that hard to get our own treats! Andy, our host for the tasting, explained each of the wines on the tasting menu, and gave us an overview of Martha’s less-is-more winemaking philosophy:

After 8 years apprenticing around the world, Martha set out as a self-funded, first-generation winemaker to answer the question, “What does California taste like?” In our hot little corner of Northern California, Mediterranean grapes thrive and healthy vineyards allow us to create joyful balanced wines. Our wines are made from unexpected varietals and offer new takes on California classics. We do things the right way even if it’s not the easy or cool way. Of the nearly two dozen wines we make every year, blends and flavors change but our desire to share the simple pleasures of natural wine remains the same.

All of our wines are fermented with native yeast and bacteria, are vegan, and have no additions beyond minimal effective sulfites for some wines, as listed. (www.marthastoumen.com)

Tasting the Wines

2025 Out to the Meadow ($40; 12.5% abv)

An intriguing blend from the Suisun Valley AVA comprising Chenin Blanc (50%), Vermentino (30%), Trousseau Gris (12%), Green Hungarian – a new grape for me! – (4%), and Chasselas Doré (4%). According to Andy, this is a historic California field blend, i.e., all grapes were planted together rather than in separate plots.

Pale lemon color with a mix of citrus and tropical fruit aromas (lemon, pineapple) opening to ripe stone fruit after a few minutes. On the palate it is crisp, tangy, and absolutely delicious! In addition to the fruit, there is an underlying mineral texture which contrasts nicely with a hint of honey. The finish is long and complex, with a lingering note of fresh herbs and wildflowers. As we sipped, I imagined serving this wine with grilled swordfish drizzled in lemon butter. It was also pretty delish with the Bulgarian feta with honey and fresh thyme leaves!

2021 Reserve Chardonnay Di Cesare Vineyard $50; 12.5% abv)

100% Chardonnay, quite aromatic with lovely notes of sweet Meyer lemon, tart yellow apple, and pear; white flowers, and cream. The palate was classic Chardonnay, with a rich, creamy finish (the wine spent 18 months on its fine lees in new, 500L Stockinger puncheons). It’s an elegant and well-balanced wine that would have made a perfect match with the day boat scallops en croute with wild fennel pollen, white sturgeon caviar, and Champagne beurre blanc that we enjoyed the previous night at Valette.

2024 Honeymoon ($39; 12.5% abv)

70% Colombard (vines planted in 1948!) and 30% Chardonnay from organic, dry-farmed vineyards in the Redwood Valley of Mendocino County. No oak influence.

Classic aromas of apple and pear, zesty lemon, and fresh dough. The palate has similar flavors, with a long finish of lemon and dried apple. But this wine is defined by its substance and texture: it has noticeable weight without being heavy. An enigma of a wine, one I’d love to revisit in 5 years.

Nero d’Avola Rosato NV No. 3 ($37; 12.5% abv)

What a rare bird! Here’s a rosato made (25%) via the solera system, with wines dating to 2018. Sherry aficionados will recognize this process of adding reserve wines to the current vintage, creating a nonvintage blend of complexity and depth.

It’s 100% Nero d’Avola, 75% from the 2025 vintage, the rest contributed by the solera. Grapes were grown on the Bricarelli Ranch in Mendocino County. It’s a gorgeous, blood-orange color with strong aromas of fresh and dried cherry, strawberry, a whiff of rhubarb, and a savory-saline note. On the palate there’s more red fruit, black mission figs, and plum. Just a hint of tannin keeps the fruit balanced and the palate fresh.

So, so good. I’m craving a glass right now . . .

2024 Zinfandel ($38; 12.5% abv)

80% Zinfandel and 20% Valdiguié from the Del Barba Vineyard in Contra Costa County. Gorgeous pale ruby color. Super-fruity nose (blueberries, black cherries, strawberries) with floral notes (hibiscus, rose). Juicy and tangy on the palate, with just a suggestion of tannins; moderate acidity; lovely floral character that lasts through the finish. This wine was really fun to drink!

???? Mystery Date ($42; 11% abv)

Bright ruby red with aromas of red berries, rose petals, and a hint of golden raisin. On the palate it’s tangy with a mildly tannic texture. Flavors of strawberry, fresh basil, and plum, with a surprising licorice note on the finish. Barely-there tannins and soft acidity let the fruit take center stage. An easy, enjoyable sip.

So what was it? Lacrima di Moro d’Alba, a variety with roots in the Le Marche region of Italy’s Adriatic Coast. I’ve had this variety a few times before, but it didn’t come to mind as my sister and I made our best guesses.

Big thanks to Andy, who took time to explain each wine, as well as the inspiration and philosophy behind it. The Martha Stoumen tasting room was a highlight of our visit to Sonoma. In fact, my imagination is running wild with appreciation for what California actually tastes like . . .