During my recent trip to Sonoma, I finagled an appointment with William Allen of Two Shepherds Wine. Not an easy feat, as it turns out: aside from his role as head honcho of the winery, William holds down a full-time job in the tech industry. To say his days are busy would be a gross understatement.

He describes his avocation as “a hobby run amok” albeit one with a sharp focus on uncommon grape varieties from organic, dry-farmed vineyards. A methodology that eschews the use of sulfur, fining and filtration and leans into native yeasts and neutral barrels. When we arrived, William was moving said barrels around with a tractor: a man on a mission who had already worked a full day at his 9-5 job.

Nevertheless, he graciously guided us through a tasting of six wines currently on offer:

2025 Soleil Albariño ($27; 11.1% abv; 275 cases made)

This is the fourth vintage of Soleil, which is named after the winery’s rescue goat. (In fact, each of the wines bears the name of an animal on the farm.) Fermentation and maturation occurred in a combo (50/50) of stainless-steel tanks and neutral barrels for eight months. A lip-smacking, fresh wine with a pronounced citrus character (lemon, lime, orange) complemented by salty, mineral notes. Pour a glass and dig into a platter of fried calamari!

2025 Rosé of Ancient-Vine Cinsault ($26; 12.2% abv; 50 cases made)

Grapes come from the famed Bechtold Vineyard in Lodi which, at 140 years old, is one of the world’s oldest identified plantings. The wine aged in stainless-steel tanks for seven months and (as with all Two Shepherds wines) was not filtered or fined. This rosé is a pure, fruit-driven pleasure to drink. Delicate, pale cherry color with hedonistic aromas of wild strawberry and watermelon; a hint of tannic texture on the palate. Throw a few burgers on the grill and pop a bottle. It’s summertime, regardless of what the calendar says!

2025 Natty Pets Sparkling Orange Picpoul ($11/250 ml can; 11% abv; 250 cases made)

Fruit hails from the JDM Organic Farm in Dunnigan Hills. The vibrant golden color comes from extended skin contact: 90% of the batch rested on the grape skins for 10 days. The cans themselves were produced in California and are decorated with sketches of the winery’s colorful cast of animal characters. It’s quite aromatic, with notes of dried apricots, orange peel, and beeswax. Complex flavors of citrus, ripe apples, and dried stone fruit provide a nice counterpoint to the slightly grippy texture. Such a tasty wine! One that deserves a food pairing, whether it’s a plate of fries or a grilled pork tenderloin.

2022 Centime ($34; 11.8% abv; 375 cases made)

One look at this wine and you’ll understand its moniker: it’s deep golden/copper color looks like a penny – or in this case a centime, the French version of one. The blend is Vermentino (60%), Picpoul (25%), and Albariño (15%) which were destemmed and fermented on the skins for 12 days, then aged in neutral oak for 10 months. This is a non-traditional orange wine, one that is light and fresh, with no overt oxidative character. It’s a great introduction to skin-fermented white wines: aromas of ripe yellow apples and peaches; flavors of dried Turkish apricot and golden raisin complement the subtle texture on the palate. This wine is super-delish! As we move into autumn, this would make a great accompaniment to roasted vegetable dishes . . .

2025 Wiley Carbonic Carignan ($28; 10.6% abv; 280 cases made)

From the 80-year-old organic vines in the Trimble Vineyard in Mendocino County, Wiley is the product of carbonic maceration (a method often used in Beaujolais) in which the grapes are sealed for 21 days in stainless steel tanks, then fermented and aged (also in 100% stainless steel.) The product is a fresh, “crunchy” chillable red wine that’s perfect for cocktail hour or dinner with friends. Bright fuchsia in color, with plenty of red-berry fruit character and just a kiss of tannin. Grill a steak over a bed of herbs and you’re all set!

2024 Gamay Noir ($44; 12.2% abv; 50 cases made)

William’s first – and perhaps last – vintage of this wine. And what a beauty it is! Organic Sonoma Coast grapes were fermented 100% in whole clusters over the course of 10 months in neutral puncheons. The result is a dazzling strawberry-hued wine with aromas to match. There’s a subtle green note, probably from the stems in the clusters, which gives the wine a pleasant earthiness. This Gamay is positively scrumptious! Get it while you can . . .

2025 Pinot Gris Ramato ($30; 12.6 abv; 300 cases made)

At first glance this organic wine looks like a rosé . . . But remember that Pinot Gris grapes have a slight pinkish hue to them. And when the juice rests on the grape skins for five days, it acquires a slight coppery color. Prominent aromas of red cherry and strawberry, a bit of citrus and red apple. On the palate you’ll taste all those berries plus an attractive savory/saline note. A touch of tannin complements the fruit and adds complexity. Versatile at the dinner table, pair this lovely wine with just about anything you’re craving.

Before we left, William poured us a taste of unfermented juice from the Counoise grape, a variety rooted in Southern France, particularly the Rhône Valley and Provence. It was tart with sweet flavors of almond and apricots. No idea what that will become but I’d love to taste the new wine once it’s in the bottle!

Many thanks to William and his faithful canine companion Rui for the warm welcome. My sister and I thoroughly enjoyed each of the wines we tasted. And, as a long-time member of the Flock Wine Club, I was delighted to meet William in person.

If you’re visiting Sonoma, I highly recommend scheduling a trip to the tasting room in Windsor, which is just a 15-minute ride from downtown Healdsburg. In the meantime, check out the offerings online and order a few bottles to tide you over!