A Trip to Calabria in Three Bottles from Librandi Wines

Terraced vineyards on coastal hills overlooking the sea at sunset
Calabrian vineyards as sunset reflects off the Ionian Sea

When the first Greeks landed in Calabria back in 400 BC, they found hilltops strewn with vineyards and aptly named the region Enotria. A century later, the Romans arrived and turned viticulture into a large-scale effort.

The Cirò DOC is the best-known of Calabria’s wine appellations. Its claim to fame is the Gaglioppo grape, which gives rise to aromatic red and rosato wines with firm tannins and high acidity. DNA research has found that it’s a cross between Sangiovese and Mantonico Bianco, making it a sibling of Sicily’s Nerello Mascalese.

But there are other wine-producing areas here (most categorized as IGT rather than DOC) and, while they may not be as well known, they’re most definitely worth seeking out. Librandi makes a few such wines, all from small plots in auspicious locations.

Librandi’s Tenuta Rosaneti in Calabria (winery photo)

About Librandi

The Librandi winery was founded in 1950 by Antonio and Nicodemo Librandi. Seventy-five years later, the operation is managed by Nicodemo, his two sons Paolo and Raffaele, his nephew Francesco, and niece Teresa. The estate boasts 890 acres, 573 of which are planted with grapes, 247 with olive trees, and the rest is forest.

The Librandi Family (winery photo)

Librandi’s vineyards are located in Cirò Marina, a small town on the Ionian coast, a place naturally suited to viticulture. Perched between the sea and the Sila Mountains, vineyards benefit from elevation and exposure to sea breezes, which keep them cool during the long growing season.

The property is certified as a Sustainable Winery under the 3E Equalitas (Environmental, Ethical, Economic) qualification.

2023 Librandi “Efeso” Val di Neto, Calabria IGT ($34; 13.5% abv)

This wine is 100% Mantonico, an ancient variety native to the Ephesus region of Turkey – hence this bottle’s name, “Efeso.” Grapes were grown on 20 hectares of calcareous clay and loam soils in Tenuta Rosaneti (pictured above), specifically the plots of Rocca di Nero, and Casabona. Each of the plots was harvested by hand in mid-October.

Fermentation occurred in stainless-steel tanks and barriques over a ten-day period, followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine was then aged in a combo of new and second-use barriques for eight months before bottling and then an additional six months in bottle.

Tasting Notes and Pairing

Bright gold color with aromas of lemon and orange, ripe peach, yellow pear, and apricot.  As it opens, notes of honey and almond (nougat) emerge. On the palate it’s quite rich in texture, with citrus and orchard fruit, as on the nose. Acidity adequately balances the richness, making the “Efeso” a satisfying sip with food or on its own. I really enjoyed this wine for its boldness: it was rich and ripe, with real personality and a sense of place.

I paired this with roast chicken and a fresh mango and black bean salad with a mayo-honey-lemon dressing – a simple weeknight dinner that was elevated by the class of the wine.

2023 Librandi Gravello Tenuta Arcidiaconato, Val di Neto, Calabria IGT ($22; 14.5% abv)

Librandi has dubbed this wine a Super Calabrian because it combines the indigenous Gaglioppo grape with Cabernet Sauvignon. Blending native grapes with international varieties like Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah was what put the first Super Tuscan wines on the map, and is a style since adopted by many European winemakers.

The exact blend is 60% Gaglioppo, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the Strongoli and Rosaneti vineyards. Fermentation was in stainless steel tanks over the course of 10 days, with regular pump-overs. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation, and was aged in barriques (some new, some one-year-old) for eight months. After bottling, it aged another six months before release.

Tasting Notes and Pairing

Deep ruby color with pronounced aromas of red cherry, blackberry, and cassis followed by mineral notes of slate and gravel. As it opens there are notes of tobacco leaf and licorice; a rich note of aged balsamic vinegar.

On the palate the wine is well-balanced structurally (tannin, alcohol, acidity) with all the tangy red and black fruit from the nose: just-ripe strawberry, cherry, and blackberry. Later there are notes of espresso and dried herbs. Tannins are smooth, acidity tart and fresh. I was impressed with how gracefully the Gravello wore its relatively high alcohol (14.5%). Perhaps a testament to the cooling ocean breezes during the growing season? Whatever the cause, it works!

I paired the Gravello with herb-broiled pork loin chops and a fresh broccoli and apple slaw. The textures worked well, the flavors complemented each other: a home run! This is a wine I look forward to trying again, comparing how it presents across multiple vintages.

2025 Librandi Segno Rosato ($17; 12.5% abv)

I featured this wine in a post celebrating International Rosé Day on June 27. If I’m honest (and forced to pick!) this was my favorite wine of the three. Its bold, coral color along with the aromas and flavors of red fruit and sea salt made for a literal glass of good cheer. If you’re interested in reading the details, click here.

I was privileged to receive the Librandi wines as samples and couldn’t be more pleased to share them with you. It’s not often that I come across wines from Calabria, especially ones that are as well-made and budget friendly as these three.

I hope you’re able to find a bottle or two to try for yourself – these wines are definitely worth the effort!

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.