Are you ready for another glorious day on the Ligurian coast? Sunshine, sea breezes, and stunning vistas await! Wednesday’s Stage 11 gave us a preview of what’s ahead: skinny roads weaving back and forth from the beach to the mountains; arduous climbs followed by death-defying descents.

Jhonatan Narvaez (UAE-Team Emirates) went pedal-to-pedal with Enric Mas (Movistar) to claim his third stage win in this Giro. I was on the edge of my seat as I watched them scramble up a climb and then hurtle through twists and turns on the descent. I can’t wait to do it all again tomorrow!

Here’s a recap of the action:

Stage 12: Imperia to Novi Ligure; 175 km; hilly, 2 categorized climbs

The peloton will set off from Imperia, just east of San Remo, on the Ligurian coast. It’s a place where the mountains seem to rise right out of the sea. (If you’ve watched The Talented Mr. Ripley, the region’s dramatic landscapes will be etched into your mind.) While not the most difficult course of the Giro, it will be a tricky day, with both categorized climbs occurring in quick succession. Maybe another good opportunity for the breakaway to succeed. Could Narvaez win another one???

Wine Recommendation: 2023 Punta Crena Vigneto Isasco Rossese Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC ($32; 13% abv)

The Ruffino family has lived on Punta Crena for over 500 years. In their tiny village of Varigotti, vineyards literally connect the mountains to the sea, the hand-laid stone terraces decorating the landscape like strands of pearls. It’s the best of both worlds, where temperatures during the growing season are modified by both altitude (100-300 meters above sea level) and proximity to the sea, which is barely a kilometer away.

Today the estate is run by four siblings: Tommaso, the eldest, is the winemaker, Paolo the salesman; Anna handles logistics, and Nicola assists in the vineyards and winery. Although viticulture follows organic principles, Paolo explains their philosophy this way:

We’re not “organic.” We just do everything the same way our ancestors have for hundreds of years. 

Hard to argue with that . . .

The old-vine Rossese plots were planted in 1984 and 1999. Vinification took place in stainless steel tanks, and no machines were used for pumping over. The wine was not filtered or fined.

Do You Know Rossese?

This variety is native to western Liguria, where it thrives in the mountainous, subalpine terrain. There isn’t a single Rossese grape but rather several varieties: Rossese di Dolceacqua, which is genetically identical to the French Tibouren; Rossese Riviera Ligure di Ponente; and Rossese di Campochiesa, whose plantings have decreased in recent years. There are a few white-skinned Rossese varieties as well.

Tasting Notes and Pairing

The Punta Crena Rossese is a gorgeous cranberry-fuchsia color that pales toward the rim. And its aromas are heavenly! Effusive notes of sweet red cherry and plum, rose petal, and red licorice are brought down to earth by hints of garden dirt, fennel, and musk. On the palate it’s tart and tangy, with a cherry-berry character accented by a slightly herbaceous note. After opening, a delicious spicy component emerges. Mild tannins, lively acidity. It’s a pure pleasure to drink!

I paired this wine with a simple weeknight meal: bean and bell pepper salad dressed in a red wine vinaigrette and topped with jarred tuna filets in olive oil. It’s probably not far off from what you’d see on a menu in Liguria, so why not? The two worked quite well together, and I imagined myself at a seaside café, enjoying a summer sunset as I dined.

Have fun watching Stage 12. I’ll meet you back here tomorrow for a preview of Stage 13 and a wine to match!