I can’t believe we’re almost at the end: three weeks of racing through wind and rain, fire-ravaged hillsides, and impossibly steep mountain roads.

Oh, and protesters. How could I forget their influence on this race? They disrupted the team time trial, caused multiple stages to be abridged and, by their very presence on the roads, threatened the riders’ safety. Friday’s race was blessedly free of such nonsense but that’s cold comfort as I think about Sunday’s finale in Madrid. I hope race organizers and city officials have a security plan in place that will allow Stage 21 to take place without interruption, followed by the podium ceremonies.

On stage 19, Mads Pedersen and Jasper Philipsen battled to the finish, with Philipsen taking the stage win. However, Pedersen goes into the final two stages with a strong lead in the green jersey competition. Will we have a full sprint finish in Madrid? If so, expect these two speedsters to go pedal-to-pedal at the end.

Overall, Jonas Vingegaard and João Almeida appear to have sewn up the top two podium placements (44 seconds difference) with third place up for grabs. Pidcock, Hindley, and Pellizzari round out the top five, which should make for an interesting race Saturday. American fans will love that three of their countrymen are placed in the top ten (Riccitello, Kuss, Jorgensen). I’m here for it!

What to Expect on Stage 20

To use a wine analogy, Saturday’s race will serve as a human grape-sorting bin, separating the great riders from the good (and tired.) At this point, most of the peloton fits into the latter category. Both Vingegaard and Almeida have strong team members but, as we’ve seen throughout the past three weeks, UAE Team Emirates often leave Almeida hanging. Team Visma – Lease a Bike, on the other hand, works like a well-oiled machine that’s clear on its purpose. And don’t sleep on Team Red Bull – Bora Hansgrohe: they’ve got two riders in the top five, including the current holder of the white jersey.

Vuelta Vaso de Vino Recommendation: 2023 Bodegas y Viñedos Ponce Old Vines Manchuela ($24; 12.5% abv)

The wine comes from the high-altitude Manchuela DO east of Madrid, where young winemaker Juan Antonio Ponce has focused his passion on native grape varieties such as Albillo Blanco. Grapes for this wine (100% Albillo) come from 10 hectares of vineyards (half of which are over 50 years old) lying on calcareous clay and granite soils. Fermentation was via indigenous yeasts, and the finished wine rested 8 months in large, French oak barrels. There was no clarifying or filtering; just 50 mg of sulfur was added.

Tasting Note and Pairing

Pale lemon with pronounced aromas of lemon, yellow apple/pear, and a hint of fresh basil. After opening, there are notes of freshly cut grass and bread dough. The palate is tangy with flavors of lemon curd, ripe yellow apple and pear, leading to a long, complex finish: lemon, orange, and lime zest; chalk; and a yeasty-creamy note to round out the tartness. It left me thinking, “I want some more of this!”

We paired it with grilled swordfish and bell pepper kebabs dressed in olive oil and salt and pepper. Simple, fresh seafood works well with this wine. But you could go even simpler, say on a Friday night after a long week with a bowl of your favorite green olives and a handful or two of salty, roasted almonds.  It’s a combo I’ve enjoyed often on my trips to Spain, and it never gets old!

Enjoy the last few climbs of this year’s Vuelta. I’ll be back with a final post tomorrow.