It seems so late in the Tour for our first foray into the Alps. But then again, we spent five days in the far north of France, gradually edging westward to Normandy and Brittany, then down to the Loire Valley. By the time we arrived in the Massif Central, Stage 10 was upon us! And then there was Southwest France, where we flitted in and out of the Pyrénées Mountains through Stage 15.

Time flies when you’re having fun, as they say. Well, it’s not what the peloton will be saying tomorrow, as they prepare for three vicious HC climbs in the Alps. Just take a look at that profile map!

I feel sorry for the sprinters, as the next two days will be torture for them. It’ll actually suck for everyone else, too, especially the teammates of riders chasing a podium place in Paris. Yes, Tadej is well ahead of Jonas Vingegaard in the standings (4’15”). And, yes, Jonas is currently five minutes ahead of third-place Florian Lipovitz. But after that it gets much more competitive: the time gap between third overall and seventh is only about 5 minutes.

Anything can happen. Especially in the third week of a grand tour.

What the Heck Happened on Stage 17?

On paper it didn’t look like an upside-down kind of day. But, once the rain started, we knew there would be drama: narrow roads toward the sprint finish, lots of tight corners, an overabundance of traffic furniture. And, alas, there were casualties . . .

Team Lidl-Trek had the cycling gods on their side,safely shepherding Milan to the finish, tightening his grip on the green jersey. It’ll be interesting to see what happens at the sprint points tomorrow and Friday: will Milan manage his way through the mountains quickly enough to keep that jersey on his back?

Tour de France by the Glass Recommendation: 2022 Domaine André et Mireille Tissot Côtes du Jura Chardonnay “En Barberon” ($79; 13.5% abv)

Stéphane and Bénédicte Tissot produce iconic wines in the Jura. They took the reins from his parents, André and Mireille, with the intention of expressing vineyard terroir above all else, by farming biodynamically, and employing non-interventionist methods in the cellar.

“En Barberon” is one of Stéphane Tissot’s many cuvées, made from Chardonnay vines planted in the 1970s. It is brimming with yellow apple/pear and floral aromas, with a fresh, saline note. After it opens, there’s a whiff of smoky almond. On the palate, it has high acidity, which nicely balances the ripe Mirabelle plum flavors. There’s a chalky, mineral crunchiness on the palate, perhaps “suggested” by the rocky soils common to this region. There’s also a savory richness to this wine that feels luxurious and just a bit naughty. Open it to celebrate a special occasion – whatever that might be!

My Pairing: Fregola with Fresh Morels and Asparagus

When I first tasted the “En Barberon”, my kitchen was full of spring garden delights: fresh local asparagus and a small carton of fresh morels. There were also bunches of fresh basil and mint. I created a dish flavored with white miso, shallots, and everything listed above (except the mint.)

It was a celebration of spring, an earthy dish that worked so well with the savory quality of this Chardonnay. Don’t you just love it when a pairing comes together perfectly? Now I’m wishing I had more fresh morels . . .

Enjoy all the drama of the Alps: the landscape, the crowds, the inevitable excitement on the route. Check back tomorrow for a preview of Stage 19 – another challenging mountain day!