As Gabe and I planned our trip to Lisbon, friends reached out to share their favorite places to visit, eat, and drink. One of the best suggestions came from my friend Martin Redmond, of Enofylz Wine Blog fame: Bairro Avillez. As luck would have it, the restaurant was in the Chiado neighborhood, not far from our Airbnb.

After a visit to the Convento do Carmo, we made our way to Bairro Avillez, just a few blocks away. Located on a pedestrian-only street, the restaurant occupies a lovely historic building and offers outdoor seating – perfect for the sunny, 55-degree weather. Our hostess, Beatriz, explained that the eatery was actually four restaurants in one:

• Taberna, for tapas, charcuterie, cheeseboards, sandwiches, and snacks
• Pateo, for traditional Portuguese dishes
• Mini Bar, a gastropub which becomes a speakeasy at night
• Pizzaria Lisboa, for the obvious.

She gave us a tour of the building, which was bought and renovated by none other than José Avillez, whose tasting lunch we had enjoyed at Belcanto a few days prior.

Stunning décor, from the hand painted murals to the carefully restored vaulted ceilings, was a feast for the eyes. But we had our sights set on dining alfresco, so outdoors we went!

The tables were arranged under white canopies in the middle of the street, adjacent to the old tram tracks. People moseyed by, crossing from one side to the other to peek in the shop windows or to glance at the restaurant’s menu. Tourists or locals? It was hard to tell: all gave off a relaxed and contented vibe, which we wholeheartedly embraced!

What was nice was that we were able to order from any of the menus despite sitting in the Taberna section. And we did, both times we had lunch there. It was also our good fortune to be served by Mikael on both occasions. He helped us navigate the menus and choose our wines.

Here’s a recap of what we enjoyed:

• Green curry with grilled vegetables
• Tuna tartare
• Octopus tartare with kimchi emulsion, herbs, and pickles
• Chargrilled squid with black rice, chorizo, and garlic kimchi mayonnaise
• Cod loin with cornbread-chorizo crust (aka Christmas Cod)
• Grilled rib-eye fillet with Bearnaise sauce and fries
• Chocolate cake with Port wine

The Wines

2021 Niepoort-Avillez Vinho Branco (Douro)

A collaboration between famed winemaker Drew Niepoort and chef Jose Avillez, this wine was a typical blend of white grapes from the Douro region. While the region is best-known for its fortified Port wines, dry table wines (both white and red) have become more common.

While I wasn’t able to get stats on the exact blend of grapes, I did learn that the vines lie 600 meters above sea level and are approximately 80 years old. They come from the right bank of the Douro River, where soils are predominantly mica and schist.

Aromas of citrus peel, white flowers, and salt breezes; flavors of lemon, thyme, and minerality. Weightier on the palate than I expected but well-balanced by crisp acidity and a distinct mineral component. Super-delish with our seafood plates and definitely a pleasant sipper on its own.

2011 Monte da Penha Reserva (Alentejo)

Grapes: Trincadeira, Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez (aka Tempranillo), and Moreto.

Vineyards lie on soils of granite, stone, clay, and slate on the Serra de Sao Mamede in Portalegre, which is in northern Alentejo. The area has a unique microclimate, with rainy, humid winters followed by hot, dry summers.

Winemaker Susana Esteban fermented the juice in stainless steel vats with the skins, allowing the maceration to continue for 22 days before transferring to French Allier oak barrels, where the wine rested for one year before bottling.

Aromas of black fruit: cherry, blackberry, plum; peony flower, licorice, and tree bark. On the palate the fruit is less ripe, tending more toward sour cherry-berry, with smooth tannins and moderately high acidity. Super-silky and elegant. Just beginning to show tertiary notes, this wine has the structure to last for years. I was happy not to wait!

Gabe and I thoroughly enjoyed our two lunches at Bairro Avillez and can’t recommend it enough. It’s a place where the food, service, and wine selection are all top-notch, yet you can go as you are: jeans, sneakers, whatever.

BTW, if you hit-up the speakeasy one night, please do report back. It’s the one thing we didn’t manage on our trip and I’m so curious about it!

Saúde!