When you’re exploring a new city, sometimes the best plan is no plan.

Gabe and I had “planned” to spend our last full day in Lisbon in Belém, at the edge of the Tejo River. Home to the Torre de Belém, famous for its Manueline style, and the monolithic Padrão dos Descubrimentos, the area also boasts an ancient monastery and a miles-long riverwalk with views of the Vasco da Gama Bridge and the Cristo Rei monument.

If you’ve followed my Instagram posts, you’ll remember our bone-rattling tram ride from Praia Comercio to Belem. And our unsuccessful attempts to avoid the busloads of tour groups already in line at the Jeronimos Monastery.

Searching for a quiet place for lunch? Same.

Time to abandon the plan, get back on the tram, and explore someplace new.

Cais do Sodré was the place we didn’t know we were looking for.

Formerly a warehouse district, this energetic neighborhood abuts the Tejo River. You’ll find trendy shops, clubs, and restaurants juxtaposed with maritime businesses that still cater to the shipping trade. It’s colorful, edgy, and chock full of interesting places to eat.

We had heard about the Time Out market, which houses pop-up versions of well-known Lisbon restaurants, and headed there only to find it closed for renovation. We quickly realized that Cais do Sodré had much more to offer in terms of food. Asian street food, middle-eastern kebobs, pasta, burgers. All tasty options.

But then we stumbled upon Corrupío, with its tiny, tiled tables, traditional artwork, and gorgeous raw bar. We sat right down, immediately checking out the scrumptious-looking plates on our neighbors’ tables.

The Food: Local Traditions in a Modern Setting

Corrupío seeks to honor traditional Portuguese cuisine in a modern fashion: the focus is on locally sourced ingredients, which head chef Daniel Ferreira and his team (Rafael Pratas, Lucas Azevedo, and Pedro Colaço) use as inspiration.

Our first course was a plate of raw oysters served with a Port wine mignonette. So briny and fresh, with the Port adding a tangy sweetness to the traditional shallot vinaigrette. A brilliant flavor combo!

Continuing the seafood theme, we ordered a classic dish: fresh clams with chorizo. I’ve come to love the combo of seafood with spicy sausage – in all its guises.

Next came giant prawns in a spicy, garlic sauce. That sauce was addictive! Luckily, we were served thick slices of toast to sop up all the extra bits.

Course #3 was a petite filet of beef sandwich, cute as could be. Its unassuming appearance gave no indication of its overwhelming deliciousness. Gabe and I liked it so much that we considered ordering another! A perfect example of how a few top-quality ingredients put together in just the right way add up to much more than the sum of the parts.

Dessert was a fun, light affair called a biscuit cake: plain, vanilla cookies interlaced with barely sweetened whipped cream and topped with caramel sauce. Gabe enjoyed every bite with his coffee.

The Wines

First, I must say how impressed I was with the selection of wines by the glass. All were Portuguese and there were many to choose from. As you can see from the video, it was a wine lover’s dream, especially if that wine lover is trying to taste as many local wines as possible before going back to New York City!

2019 Ravasqueira Heritage Branco (Alentejo)

A blend of Viognier, Alvarinho, Arinto, and Marsanne (average age of the vines is 20 years) in which each variety was fermented separately in stainless steel vats. The last 225 liters of each wine was transferred to new barrels and aged for 12 months before blending and bottling.

As you can imagine, the wine is quite aromatic, with citrus fruit, orange flowers, brioche, and stone fruit. On the palate it is full-bodied with peach/pear character and beeswax balanced by cracking acidity. There is a rich texture and a long, honeyed finish. Just beautiful!

2020 Familia Silva Branco Tinto (Douro)

A typical Douro blend that includes Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Roriz, and Tinta Barrocca from vines that are about 30 years old. Vineyards lie on the Planalto de Alijó, a plateau in the region of Cima Corgo. Grapes were foot-trodden, according to local tradition, and the wine was aged for 18 months in French oak.

Ripe red fruit aromas are complemented by subtle notes of baking spice and chocolate. On the palate there is excellent structural balance: the smooth tannins, fresh acidity, and moderate alcohol make this wine a wonderful partner with a wide range of food. Absolutely amazing with the prawns and filet sandwich!

As Gabe and I learned from our server: Corrupío means “fun” in Portuguese. We couldn’t agree more! If you’re searching for an authentic taste of Portugal with a modern twist added by local chefs, you’ll love this place.

We’re already “planning” to go back!