The Final Savory Course at Belcanto: Deconstructed Terrine of Roasted Squab and a Lovely Red Alentejo Wine

By the time this plate hit the table, Gabe and I were stuffed. But of course, we summoned the will for a few more bites – and sips! The roasted squab was served medium-rare, accompanied by a mushroom pastry and dressed in a cinnamon hazelnut sauce. It reminded me of something my grandmother would have served for Thanksgiving: earthy ingredients accented by warm spices.

Whereas Anna’s dish would have been served family-style, with each of us “constructing” our own plates, Avillez’s dish was a carefully composed painting on a plate. The mild flavor of the squab almost played a supporting role, with the mushrooms stepping into the lead. The cinnamon hazelnut sauce brought all the elements together, enhancing the sweetness of the bird while contrasting with the umami flavors of the fungi.

A few bites of perfect balance, and a wonderful end to the savory courses.

Wine Pairing: 2018 Quinta do Mouro “O Mouro” (Alentejo)

Quinta do Mouro is the passion project of owner/winemaker Miguel Louro who purchased the property with his winnings from a poker game amongst friends. Rather than coursing through the countryside in a new Porsche (which was his original plan for the money) he focused instead on making wines that eschew strict regulations and conventional wisdom. Wines of inspiration.

 Louro grows his grapes near the city of Estremoz, on complex soils of schist, limestone, marble, and granite. They lie at about 400 meters above sea level, where cooling influences moderate high summer temperatures and breezes alleviate humid conditions.

This wine had a spicy character that married well with the components of the dish. Bright red fruit, silky-smooth tannins, and moderate acidity made for an enjoyable mouthful. I’m sorry to say that I was unable to turn up any details on the blend of grapes used or the aging regimen employed. (If anyone has a source for that info, please do let me know.) Nonetheless I enjoyed it greatly with the squab and would love to track down a bottle to sip again.

Coming up: a dessert extravaganza to close out the feast. And, yes, more wine!

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