Gabe and I recently returned from a five-day jaunt to Lisbon, a place neither of us had ever visited. Because it was rather spur-of-the-moment (driven by a flash sale at Delta Airlines) we did little planning aside from reserving a charming apartment in the central Chiado district and circling a few major sites in our guidebook.

Our only concession to scheduling was securing a spot at Belcanto (which has been awarded two Michelin stars) for lunch on Saturday. This restaurant, a creation of Portuguese chef José Avillez, offers contemporary local cuisine based on his favorite food memories from childhood. Each dish comes to the table with a story: of the ingredients, his grandmother’s recipes, and a description of how he has reinterpreted them.

We were excited to learn that the chef’s tasting experience could be paired with Portuguese wines (awesome for me) or with non-alcoholic beverages created specifically for each dish (awesome for Gabe.) It was our one splurge of the trip, and it was worth every penny.

If I were to describe the entire experience in one post, it would be 20 pages long. Instead, I’ve broken it up into separate entries, each detailing one course and the drinks that accompanied it.

Cuisine is culture, cooking is caring. At Belcanto, each dish tells a story.

José Avillez

Petiscos do Chef (Snacks from the Chef)

Before the hostess seated us in the dining room, she took us on a tour of the kitchens (yes, there were two: one for the prep work, another for plating) and introduced us to the chefs (yes, there were several.) What an unexpected pleasure, to catch a glimpse behind the scenes!

Once at table, we were offered Champagne, in this case, NV L’échappée Belle Blanc de Blanc from Etienne Calsac, a lovely sip as we waited for the “snacks” to arrive.

I’ve never had snacks quite like these before: four bite-sized delicacies perched on a metal tree-like serving piece. As you can see from the photo, it made for a stunning presentation. Here’s what was included: a mini tarte with broccoli and caviar; a crunchy seaweed cake with barnacles; a pastry shell topped with tuna belly and sea urchin; and a golden sphere filled with partridge escabeche and foie gras.

All delicious, but my favorite was the tuna belly. So cute with micro-herbs on top!

First Course: Beetroot in Different Textures with Pine Nut Milk and Mustard Seeds

This dish was inspired by Avillez’s family home on the Atlantic coast, especially the pine trees that dot the landscape there. Our server explained how the chef loved the flavor synergies between the pine nuts and needles and the thin shavings of beetroot. As strange as it sounded, the combination really worked! Earthy character from the beets married perfectly with the resinous, almost pungent nature of the pine.

But what blew my mind was the wine pairing.

2022 Gerações da Talha Natalha Palhete DOC Alentejo

The color of this wine was gorgeous, somewhere between rosy pink and golden orange. Yes, almost the same color as the beets, and with similar flavors. A blend of red and white grapes, Natalha was made according to the ancestral method and aged in amphorae. Extended skin contact contributed a bit of tannic structure which worked very nicely with the dish. I sipped and sampled, not really believing what my palate was experiencing: an alignment of flavor, texture, and pleasure from ingredients that, in my wildest imaginings, I’d never have put together!

As I said, mind blown. Poof!

Now, if I could track down this wine in the US, I’d be one happy girl . . .

As for the non-alcohol pairing, Gabe enjoyed Herbal Green, a savory combination of basil, thyme, and parsley, another winner with the beetroot and pine combo. It was wonderful to be offered an option crafted specifically to complement the dish. One that was created with intention rather than as an afterthought. Would love to see more efforts like this . . .

That’s it for now but stick around. The next course will be served shortly!