I’ve been shaking up my cooking routine this summer, trying new recipes and seeking out interesting wines to pair with them. One dish that caught my eye was Dumpling Salad with Smashed Cucumbers and Peanut Sauce from New York Times Cooking. Why? One, it required almost no cooking, which meant my kitchen would remain cool. Two, it was simple to prepare yet offered a unique combo of flavors and spice. My challenge would be finding the perfect wine to accompany it.

More on that later . . .

I salted a few sliced cucumbers and let them rest while I made the peanut sauce. Nothing crazy-complicated about that, but I did add a tablespoon of fresh ginger paste and a teaspoon of chili crisp to pump it up. Next, I steamed a pound of potstickers, and assembled the salad, topping it with chopped cilantro. All done!

But then I realized the spice and slight sweetness of the peanut sauce presented a challenge when selecting a wine: I needed one that would play nicely with both without getting “lost in the sauce.” (Sorry, couldn’t resist!)

A quick look at the wine rack reminded me that there was a special bottle from Spain that just might work:

2018 Artífice Listán Blanco from Borja Pérez (DO Ycoden Daute Isora)

Just before we left Miami, Gabe and I dined at Niu Wine, a really cool place serving Spanish bites (especially tinned seafood) and focusing on natural wines. Here’s a quick look at the menu and the space – definitely go if you’re in Miami!

We picked out a few bottles to take home (prices are significantly discounted if you take the bottles with you) and that was the last time I thought about this wine until recently. Never heard of Listán Blanco? You may recognize it by another name – Palomino Fino, renowned for its use in Sherry. The grape has an affinity for the volcanic soils of the Canary Islands, home to fourth-generation winemaker Borja Pérez González (certified organic.) The old-vines fruit was fermented in 500-liter French barrels, where it aged for seven months on the lees. Artífice translates to “creator”, and the wine’s label features a photo of Borja’s grandfather’s hands.

Aromas of lemon peel, wet rocks, and sea breeze (a reflection of the vineyards’ location on the windswept coast of Tenerife?); flavors are an enticing mix of citrus, saline, and minerality, at once lean and crisp but with a richness that is quite pleasant on the palate. It reminded me of an orange wine, especially its ability to pair well with challenging ingredients. A bit like a Fino or Manzanilla Sherry, it would be a delight to sip this wine al fresco, with a bowl of Marcona almonds and Spanish olives alongside.

Who knew Asian-style cuisine would be such a hit with a Spanish island wine?