But first, let’s recap what happened on Stage 11:

For most of the day, the peloton kept things on an even keel. Breakaways jumped out, then were brought back; Vizma riders half-heartedly tested Pogacar’s will, then resumed their spots in the group. Not until the end was there any action.

Jonas Abrahamsen from Team Uno-X and Mauro Schmid from Team Jayco AIUIa went toe-to-toe to the last kilometer, then began fussing about, looking at each other as if to say, “No, I’m not going to do all the work, YOU go.” As they continued this cat-and-mouse game, Mathiu Van Der Poel revved up his big engine, slowly gaining on them.

He almost beat them to the line! (Abrahamsen was awarded the stage win.)

In the GC standings, Ben Healy retained the yellow jersey; the rest of the top ten remains the same. However, a scary moment for Pogacar as he approached the final few kilometers: Tobias Johannessen of Team Uno-X clipped Tadej’s front wheel as he tried to move through the group. That sent Tadej flying to the ground, then sliding toward the cement pylons. Fortunately, he slid into the curb shoulder-first, protecting his head, and was back on his bike in a flash. In a moment of good sportsmanship, the group he’d been riding with (including Vingegaard and Evenepoel) slowed down until he rejoined them. Here’s hoping he suffers no lasting ill effects . . .

What’s Ahead in Stage 12

Looking forward to Thursday’s race, I predict a battle royale in the borderland between France and Spain. A true mountain stage with four very difficult climbs (categories 4, 1, 2, and an HC finish) the course will challenge anyone with aspirations for the overall leader’s yellow jersey. Does Evenepoel have the legs (or the team support) to keep pace with favorites Pogacar and Vingegaard? Could newcomers Lipovitz and Vauquelin pose a threat?

I’m also looking at French rider Lenny Martinez of Team Bahrain-Victorious to make a move. He wore the polka-dot jersey in Stage 11, so I wouldn’t count him out. In fact, his dad was also a world-class climber: back in the late 1970s, he also wore the King of the Mountains jersey. Go, Lenny, go!

Food and Drink of the Region

Today’s not a day for teetotalers or vegetarians, as we traipse through Gascogne and the Haute-Pyrénées, home to delicacies like foie gras, Armagnac, and the Tannat-based wines of Madiran.  For the rest of us, however, it is a feast for the senses.

Pork is celebrated here, especially the highly prized Porc Noir de Bigorre, a black pig native to the region and awarded its own appellation d’origine protégée, or AOP.  According to local tradition, they spend their lives grazing freely in the fields and meadows, where they feast on the acorns and chestnuts that are also specialties of this area. Ham from these pigs is often compared to the jamón ibérico de cinco jotas produced in Spain.

The wine-making tradition of Madiran dates to the 11th century when Benedictine monks established the Madiran Priory.  As they became rooted in the community, the monks began to produce wine, which was intended for sacramental use.  As their expertise increased, they expanded production to sell to local residents and to folks who lived high up in the Pyrénées Mountains. Today, you can visit the priory, enjoying a gourmet meal at one of its restaurants and spending the night in luxury accommodations.

Centuries later, the wines of Madiran were used to supplement wines produced in other parts of France that lacked sufficient structure or color on their own.  Happy to say that in the 21^st century, the wines of Madiran stand on their own, appealing to wine lovers the world over.

If you’re a white wine lover, Madiran has something for you, too.  Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh is made from a blend of local grapes (Courbu, Petit Courbu, Gros Manseng, and Petit Manseng,) and can be either sweet or dry.  It is similar in style to the wines of Jurançon, which are perhaps better known here in the US.  Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh whites tend toward the aromatic, giving off scents of citrus, tropical fruit, white peaches, and apricots.  The more complex versions may also exhibit enticing floral aromas, and are sometimes compared to Viognier, the White Queen of the Northern Rhône.

About Château Viella

The Bortolussi Family, now in its fourth generation, purchased the property in 1952, including the vineyards and the 18^th century castle whose image adorns the label. They continue to make wines made from local grape varieties (see below) and now offer a full-service agritourism experience. Visitors can choose to attend musical performances and other cultural events at the Château, tour the gardens, and indulge in food and wine pairing dinners. Château Viella achieved HVE certification in 2017.

2023 Château Viella Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Sec Séraphin

60% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng, 10% Arrufiac*

Aromas of citrus and tropical fruits, rounded out by ripe white peach and apricot. As it opens, the wine gives off lovely floral notes. The palate is dry, with moderate acidity and complex flavors of peach, pineapple, lemon curd, and orange rind. The finish is long and highly aromatic. A perfect partner for summer dishes like grilled fish, boudin blanc, or sushi.

* Arrufiac is an ancient, light-skinned variety known for its tannic quality. According to the Oxford Companion to Wine, it was rescued from obscurity in the 1980s by André Dubosc of the Plaimont cooperative, and is typically blended with Gros and Petit Manseng, Courbu Blanc, and Petit Courbu.

2022 Château Viella Madiran Tradition ($16; 14.3% abv)

60% Tannat, 40% Cabernet Franc 

Deep purple with flashes of violet at the rim, this wine offers aromas of ripe red fruit (strawberry, cherry) enhanced by subtle notes of spices. Tannins are grippy but help balance the ripe fruit profile, as does the acidity. Please serve this wine with a good steak, such as the picanha pictured below, a confit of duck, or a platter of cured meat (perhaps from Bigorre).

The winery also makes Perla, a sparkling wine of 100% Gros Manseng which is harvested early in September to maintain acidity and freshness. Fermentation continues until the juice achieves an alcohol level of 5%, resulting in a crisp, slightly sweet wine that’s perfect with a torchon of foie gras or a fresh fruit dessert.

Now that’s a full complement of lovely wines for a summer evening!

Enjoy Thursday’s race; I’ll see you again tomorrow for a preview of Stage 13’s time trial and another Tour de France By the Glass recommendation.