Stage 16 of the Giro d’Italia: Moving North to the Mountains, Sipping Kerner from Kellerei Bozen

Tuesday marks the beginning of the final week of this year’s Giro: just five stages left before the finale in Rome. But the roads between here and there will be vicious, testing the mettle of the peloton’s elite climbers while deflating the spirits of just about everyone else.

Should be exciting for us though!

Here’s a quick recap of what happened on Sunday, when we watched UAW Team Emirates put all their eggs in Juan Ayuso’s basket despite teammate Isaac Del Toro (in the Maglia Rosa) riding in the lead group with grand tour champions Egan Bernal and Richard Carapaz.

Baffling!

In my mind, Del Toro has earned his team’s support in defense of the leader’s jersey. Ayuso, on the other hand, had some weak moments on the arduous climbs. More drama is sure to follow in the coming days, which will keep us spectators on the edge of our seats.

My legs hurt just looking at this profile map!

Some of the riders will have recovered during the rest day; others will find their physical strength and mental stamina have lapsed. Who will prevail? The race features four categorized climbs (Cat 2, Cat 2, Cat 1, Cat 1) for a whopping total of 54 kilometers of climbing. Even the sprint point occurs on an ascent.

I’m getting my popcorn ready . . .

Spectator Sip: 2024 Kellerei Bozen Putscheit Kerner, Alto Adige (14% abv; about $25 retail)

I recently attended an online tasting with Matthias Messner, General Director of Kellerei Bozen in Alto Adige in northeast Italy. The cooperative comprises 224 family winemakers cultivating 340 hectares of vines, most of them varieties native to the region. It’s a fascinating area for wine lovers as grapes are grown at all elevations, from the mountain tops to the valley floors. Soils also vary greatly from one section to another, as do exposures and varieties planted.

In total I tasted four wines from Kellerei Bozen, and my full report will be published soon. Today, however, I’m focusing on the Puntscheit Kerner, a cross between Riesling and Schiava, and the dynamite pairing it made with Thai food.

About Kerner

Messner explained that Kerner loves the colder climate of the upper slopes, growing best in the zone between 550 – 800 meters above sea level (Valle Isarco; Val Venosta). Good thing it’s a frost-resistant variety! Kerner’s parent grapes, Schiava and Riesling, were purposely selected because they each brought an important quality to the cross: Schiava is prodigious, capable of producing ample yields in a marginal climate. Riesling, on the other hand, is well-known for the high quality of its fruit, thriving in temperatures that might inhibit other varieties from full ripening. Messner called Kerner “an ideal mountain white wine,” mentioning that one of his favorite pairings for it is an artichoke, pear, and Pecorino salad. Sounds heavenly to me!

Sudtirol aka Alto Adige is a bicultural region with Germanic and Italian influences!

My Tasting Notes and Pairing

The first word I wrote in my notebook was, “Gorgeous!”

The Putscheit Kerner is pale lemon-green, with aromas that practically burst from the glass. Nary a swirl was required as I basked in the scent of acacia flowers, fresh orange zest, lemon, pineapple, and ripe yellow apple. There were subtle leesy notes as well.

On the palate, there’s high acidity, which provides the perfect counterbalance to the ripe tropical and citrus flavors. After some time in the glass, I noticed white currant, peaches, apricot, and orange peel. This wine is rather full-bodied, with a complex texture. Yet it remains light on its feet, dancing across the palate like a prima ballerina.

The balance between perfect ripeness and tart acidity was exquisite. Such a pleasure to drink! And it worked very well with our favorite Thai food, in this case, a selection of dishes across the flavor spectrum . . .

Yum Som – O: fresh pomelo sections with shallots, chilis, jumbo shrimp, dried shrimp, roasted coconut, mint, and tempura-style betel leaves, topped in a sweet-salty dressing.

Chive Dumplings Massaman: Chives, shiitake mushrooms, and tofu, wrapped in pandan-infused rice crepes (blue!) and served in a rich massaman curry, topped with dried coconut.

Khao Pad Mun Nua: Jasmine rice stir-fried with garlic, scallions, and cilantro topped with tender marinated boneless ribeye and served with a spicy seafood dipping sauce.

Most wines would struggle to keep up with all the flavors, textures, and spice. The Puntscheit Kerner said, “No worries, I got this.” And boy, did it ever!  Even my husband was blown away by this wine. His words: “You could pair this one with anything – or nothing. It’s a winner!”

I second that notion . . .

Stay tuned for my full report on Kellerei Bozen, its unique history, and how it is, according to Matthias Messner, “a culture of contrasts. from the southern balcony of the Alps.”

Enjoy the race – and the ensuing drama!

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