For our next course, we were transported to Cascais, the coastal town where Avillez grew up. While Gabe and I didn’t visit Guincho Beach in person, we literally got a taste of what it would be like to live there.

Our plates were adorned with slivers of perfectly poached sea bass topped with caviar. Under the fish lay sprigs of seaweed and tiny clams in a crustacean dashi broth. A simple dish, but one that relied on impeccably fresh ingredients. As with the previous courses, this one told a story: one about a boy whose playground was the beach, where he watched the local fishermen cast their nets and bring home their catch.

The flavors (briny, sweet, herbaceous) called up memories of my own, watching my grandmother prepare fresh fish caught by my uncle that day. Her dish was much less fancy, but the sense memories it left me were just as potent as those that inspired Avillez. Strangely enough I felt right at home.

The Wine: 2021 Quinta de San Michel Malavarinto de Janas Vinha Regional de Lisboa

Another wine that comes from the Sintra region north and west of Lisbon, this is a blend of Malvasia de Colares and Arinto, the first of which is grown on the sandy cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. It contributes a Fino Sherry-like character to this wine, which was quite lovely with the seafood. Arinto brings a bouquet of citrus aromas and flavors as well as tart acidity, which makes for a harmonious blend. There are also notes of white pepper, cinnamon, and smoke on the long and complex finish.

Gabe’s nonalcoholic beverage was a gorgeous shade of red, not surprising as it was a mélange of red fruits, tangerine, and beetroot. I didn’t try this one, but he seemed to like it well enough.

Okay, one more savory course to come, then we move on to the dessert offerings. Yes, that means more than one! See you soon!