Our fifth course in the Belcanto tasting lunch was an ode to seasonality, as interpreted by Chef Avillez. As I looked at the bowl in front of me, I imagined a winter walk through the forest, sticks crackling beneath my feet. And afterward, warming my hands in front of a toasty fireplace, then savoring this delicate mushroom dish.

One spoonful took me to a completely different place: decadence.

Tiny wood-ear mushrooms lay atop small slices of eel, garnished with strands of seaweed and shavings of truffle. What bound the elements together was a silky, confit of egg yolk, which Arthur instructed us to swirl into the mix.

Wowza!

So much going on: smoky-sweet flavor from the eel, crunchy earthiness from the mushrooms, umami from the truffles, and richness from the egg. In that moment, my make-believe forest adventure became real.

The Pairing: 1995 Caves de São João Porta dos Cavaleiros Riserva, Dão DOC

Yes, you read that correctly, a white wine made almost 30 years ago!

This full-bodied blend of Encruzado, Fernão Pires, Bical, and Malvasia Fino, was full of tertiary character: dried fig, mushroom, toasted hazelnut, honey/caramel. So very rich and complex. Despite its age, the wine was still fresh, with ample acidity to balance the strong flavors of the meal.

It was absolute perfection with the dish, going toe-to-toe with its umami decadence. The wine’s tertiary notes found common ground with the smoky, woodsy flavors, while its acidity kept the richness in check, refreshing the palate after every bite.

The winery, founded in 1920 by brothers José Manuel and Albano Costa, made its mark by exporting wine to Brazil and other Portuguese colonies. A hallmark of their wines is the unique labeling: each bottle features a label made from paper coated with natural cork. They make wines in every color and style – something for everyone.

I’d really like to taste more wines like this!

Gabe’s non-alcoholic pairing was as exciting as mine: a spicy infusion of red chai, Marco Polo tea, and cinnamon. You can catch a glimpse of it in the second photo, above. Made in-house, this drink was delicious, and a great partner with the food.

Thanks for following along! I hope you’ll come back for the next chapter: still a few courses to go.