Recently I met a friend for lunch at an unassuming place in Union Square: located in the center of a nondescript block, the restaurant looked like a million other places in New York City. But when I opened the door, I found myself in a wonderland of aromas and colors: hand painted murals adorned the walls, the scent of exotic spices wafted from the kitchen, and waiters rushed gorgeous plates into a packed dining room. It felt as if I had walked through the looking glass!

As their menu promises:

Laut was one of the first Malaysian restaurants to receive a Michelin Star in NY. We focus on bringing the best recipes, dishes and flavors from Southeast Asia for you. Our goal is to preserve the flavor profiles of each dish, while maintaining the integrity of each cuisine. The only way to achieve that is to recreate them from scratch with regionally authentic spices and the freshest ingredients.

Laut, in Bahasa Melayu (Malay Language), translates to Sea. These straits or seas of these coastal cities played a crucial role in the region’s history, navigating traders and travelers from all over the world.

At Laut, we’ll navigate your palates through an adventurous journey of flavors through our cuisine. Our menu ranges from local favorites, street foods, different curries, spicy & sour broths, satays, noodles, bread (roti), and rice dishes.

Here are some notes from my lunch:

We started off with a glass of Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco, a real treat on a hot day. And, if you’re looking for a great-value sparkling wine, here you go. And it was a great match with the food we shared.

Asam Laksa

Spicy, fish-based soup popular in Peranakan cuisine, this dish was supposedly what Anthony Bourdain ordered whenever he visited Laut. It was delicious! Just enough spice to wake up your palate without overwhelming it.

The Famous Rendang (with Beef)

Caramelized dry curry, oyster sauce, and exotic, southeast Asian spices. One of Laut’s most famous dishes the rendang was quite spicy but oh-so flavorful. You can customize your dish with your preferred protein (chicken, shrimp, tofu, or mixed seafood) but beef is the classic.

Papaya Salad

A delightful bowl of shredded raw green papaya, chili, string beans, cilantro, peanuts, and tomato with chili lime house dressing. A Thai classic that I’ve enjoyed over the years; this was one of the best.

Sambal Belacan with Shrimp

Belacan is a classic dish in Malaysian cuisine. Made with dry shrimp and chilis, the combination of okra, eggplant, bell peppers, and onions providing a savory depth of umami flavor. Customize with your choice of protein, in our case, fresh shrimp.

Coconut Pudding

I LOVE COCONUT! And this dessert did not disappoint. From its dramatic arrival at the table (I mean, look at that!) until we had eaten every bit, we enjoyed the heck out of this gorgeous tropical plate. Maybe my favorite part of the meal?

Conclusion

I really liked Laut. The space is artfully imagined, the food colorful and bursting with flavor, and the service was on point. It was a mini-vacation to southeast Asia and a delicious one at that. In fact, I can’t wait to go back. Perhaps I’ll see you there!