An Evening with Biondi-Santi Wines and Fiola Miami

Earlier this year I attended an extraordinary food and wine event at Fiola Miami, featuring the Brunello di Montalcino Riserva wines from Tenuta Greppo, the Biondi-Santi winery’s premier estate. As a lover of Brunello, I look forward to every opportunity to taste their wines: they crafted the original, after all!

Tenuta Greppo Riserva has been released only 40 times since 1888, always in minuscule quantities. Grapes come from the estate’s oldest plots, where vines are at least 25 years old. And, as we know, Brunello Riserva has strict aging requirements: a minimum of five years, including two in barrel and another six months in bottle.

Giampiero Bertolini, CEO of Biondi-Santi Wines, guided us through a tasting of three vintages of Tenuta Greppo Riserva, each paired with a stunning dish created by Chef Danny Ganem at Fiola Miami.

Oh, what a night!

Reception

We began with a colorful antipasto platter, served with a refreshing glass of 2017 Ca’ del Bosco Franciacorta Dosage Zero (bright citrus, a hint of pastry dough, clean finish.) To clear our palates for the first course, we were served a small cup of flavorful broth topped with shredded mushrooms, Almost as bubbly as the wine was the ambiance of the dining room. It was high-energy and electric. And this was just the beginning.

First Course: Heirloom Melanzane alla Parmigiana with 2019 Rosso di Montalcino

Just a gorgeous dish, decorated with dehydrated tomato, basil oil, and Parmigiano foam, this was as much a feast for the eyes as for the palate. Paper-thin slices of eggplant formed the base for a delicate yet bold bite, and perfectly paired with the Rosso. Excellent in its own right, the Rosso had all the gorgeous cherry, leather, and herb aromas of a Brunello but perhaps without the intensity and power. I often buy the Rosso of a great Brunello producer, as it represents a solid bargain (but isn’t always inexpensive!)

Second Course: Cinghiale Ragu and Torchietto Pasta with 2011 Brunello Riserva

My favorite course of the night! The rich ragu of Florida wild boar, oregano, and Parmigiano Vacche Rosse just hit the spot. And the 2011 Riserva was no slouch: it was also my wine of the night. Dark, dense ruby (just a hint of garnet at the rim) with pronounced aromas of sour cherry, violet, mushroom, crushed stones, and earth. My notes describe the nose as “a fairy beckoning me to get closer to the glass.”  On the palate there was all the magic of the nose plus bitter chocolate, smooth and ripe tannins, a ribbon of acidity. A wine of exquisite balance. This wine looked, smelled, and tasted much younger than it was. I can only imagine the delights it will offer in a few years. LOVE!

Main Course: Dry-Aged Bistecca alla Fiorentina with 1999 and 2016 Brunello Riserva

I haven’t had a better Bistecca since my last visit to Florence. This was the real deal! Prepared with rosemary, garlic confit, and 25-year-old Balsamico di Modena, our main course was a showstopper. Our waiter presented the whole steak to us, then proceeded to slice it off the bone. I don’t think there’s a better meal to accompany Brunello Riserva, do you?

Two wines accompanied this course, one much older than the other. The 1999 still looked youthful, with an intense ruby color. On the nose I got notes of amarena cherry, vanilla-whisky sweetness, dried berry, tobacco, and saddle leather. The palate was still going strong with lots of tannin and acidity and flavors of strawberry preserves and balsamic vinegar. Definitely the most-evolved of the wines we tried, showing how well the entire group will age.

The 2016 Riserva was an energetic teenager in comparison to the 99. Lots of fruit on the nose, ample tannins but already smooth on the palate, a rush of acidity to refresh between bites of steak. Just delicious and drinking really well right now. It would be fun to taste this again in three or four years.

Bonus Wine: 2015 Brunello Riserva

Each of the wines we enjoyed came from Fiola’s cellar. As we made our way through the main course, waiters stopped by to pour an additional wine at the behest of the restaurant owner. Who would refuse that? Here are my notes: shy nose of strawberry and cherry; bold tannins, moderately high acidity, still very young on the palate. Still bright ruby in color, this wine will last for years. Just lovely!

Dessert: Zuccotto Fiorentino with Café Corretto Cocktail

After so much delicious food I wasn’t sure I could even find room for dessert! Somehow, I managed . . . 😊 Our final course was airy and light, and oh so perfect, topped with hazelnut mousse, gianduja, and candied strawberries. And the “cocktail” was a nice complement with its slightly bitter coffee flavor and icy texture.

I felt so lucky to go on this wine adventure, tasting the hallmark wines from one of the world’s most esteemed producers. And the plates prepared by the Fiola Miami team were just as exceptional. If you’re in South Florida, I highly recommend a trip to Coral Gables to dine here.

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