Tour de France Stage 9: Enjoying the Cabernet Franc Wines of Chinon

Saturday’s Stage 8 was a bit of a yawn. Call it a case of “Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose.” The top ten in the yellow jersey competition survived intact; the winner was Italian sprinter extraordinaire, Jonathan Milan. The most exciting part of the day was Wout Van Aert’s charge to the finish, right on Milan’s wheel.

Good to have you back, Wout!

Sunday won’t bring any thrills on the road, as you can see from the profile map.

Profile Map Stage 9

But this may be a case in which the status quo benefits the riders, even if it’s not all that scintillating to watch. Monday, Bastille Day, will bring enough fireworks to blast us out of our spectators’ ennui. Stay tuned . . .

But what will be thrilling is my Tour de France By the Glass recommendation:

Pick a Chinon, Any Chinon (Here are four to delight your tastebuds!)

Centered around the town of Tours in the Loire Valley, Chinon produces red, white, and rosé wines (and even a few sparklers). For the whites, Chenin Blanc takes pride of place, while Cabernet Franc (known locally as Breton) rules the roost in terms of red and rosé production. The climate is relatively warm with some oceanic influence, resulting in wines of ripeness and concentration.

Soils vary, from alluvial terraces (lighter-bodied wines for early drinking) to steeper slopes of yellow and white tuffeau (age-worthy, more structured wines) and limestone plateaus topped with flinty clay, yielding long-lived wines of complexity and depth.

In general, red and rosé wines from Chinon will have intense color: deep coral for the rosés, bright ruby red for the reds (turning deeper and darker as they age.) Known for its vibrant aromas, Cabernet Franc from this region will have effusive notes of violet, cherry, and graphite, perhaps some green-pepper notes as well. They’re high in acidity, with a tart red fruit profile on the palate. Depending on their age and whether they’ve spent time in oak barrels, you might discern tertiary notes of dried fruit or a nutty/sweet character imparted by wood.

Photo bomb by the Saumur-Champigny! (Another great Loire Cab Franc)

Chinon Vin Mousseux de Qualité La Cravantine Domaine Fabrice Gasnier

Made via the méthode ancéstrale and according to biodynamic principles, this wine will delight all lovers of bubbly. A pale coral robe gives rise to a red fruit medley of aromas: pomegranate, raspberry, strawberry, all of which are reflected on the palate. The long finish evokes ripe red peaches, wet rocks, and a fresh, ocean breeze. At just $24, La Cravantine finds its way into my cart quite often. And, FYI: I brought a few bottles to Friendsgiving last year, to rave reviews all around!

I bought a few bottles of this and now I can’t “find” them . . .

2023 Domaine Fabrice Gasnier Le Rosé

The still-wine version of La Cravantine, this gorgeous rosé is 100% Cabernet Franc from 30-year-old vines. It is one of the purest expressions of the variety: alluring aromas of violet, cherry, orange peel, and plum; tangy acidity which complements the ripe fruit flavors. Serve with a charcuterie platter or grilled pork chops topped with a fresh peach salsa.

Highlight of October’s Vegas trip

2018 Couly-Dutheil Clos de L’Echo

Domaine Couly-Dutheil was established in 1921 when Baptiste Dutheil purchased a portion of the historic Clos de L’Echo Vineyard: purportedly a frequent hang-out for Joan of Arc (back in the day!)

This wine is a dark, brooding example of Cabernet Franc from a warm vintage: the black fruit is super-ripe but kept in check by moderate acidity. It is rich and tannic, perfect with grilled steak or a heart-warming stew. I’d love to try another vintage of this wine, when conditions were cooler. But I really did swoon over this one, despite its heft (15.5% abv).

Ooh la la with duck breast from Pastis!

2020 Olga Raffault Chinon

Think of the most elegant person you know: the one who effortlessly fits in, regardless of occasion or situation. This is their vinous counterpart. Lovely floral and red fruit aromas; tangy on the palate, with a nice balance between ripe red fruit and acidity. Wonderful with a grilled duck breast!

As with all Raffault wines, the fruit was farmed organically, harvested by hand and destemmed but not crushed. Fermentation was with native yeasts in tank, with a maceration of about two weeks. This Chinon was aged in stainless steel tanks for about 6 months before bottling.

Cheers to Chinon! And cheers to the peloton as they attack Stage 9. I’ll see you tomorrow with info on Stage 10, which should be one for the ages (eight categorized climbs!) And, as ever, there will be wine recommendations.

2 comments

  1. Definitely great to have Wout back! I visited one of the three wineries you feature. Couly-Dutheil is a very nice, low-key visit just to the side of small downtown Chinon. Lovely CF.

    Liked by 2 people

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