Alfred, our server, had barely whisked away the metal trees used to serve the Petiscos do Chef when another kitchen magician dropped a bread-and-butter plate on the table. The rolls were a swirled dark and light pattern, in the shape of soft-serve ice cream cones.

And then came the butters: three dollops in the same cute shape as the rolls, each a different color. Pale yellow was a delicately salted butter from the Azores; red was a cheesy chorizo mix; and purply-black brought pungent olive flavors. We didn’t leave a crumb!

Shortly thereafter, Alfred presented the menu card for our next course: an illustration of the ocean bottom, with colorful varieties of seaweed snaking upward. Avillez’s theme, entitled Rebentação, means surf or breakers, and the only clues to what lay ahead were the words printed on the back: coast, freshness, and sea vegetables.

What landed on our plate was all that and more: a gorgeous mélange of seaweed and tiny clams, topped with frozen diced green apple.

The clams were briny and salty, balanced by green notes from the seaweed and a crisp tang from the apple. So fresh on the palate! The only improvement I could imagine would be to tuck into this dish while sitting on the beach. Preferably the one where Avillez grew up – the place that inspired this dish.

Once again, the selected wine paired perfectly:

2023 Ramilo Galego Dourado (Lisboa)

Ramilo is a fourth-generation family winery situated in the steep hills near Sintra, north and west of the city. Vineyards lie on rocky soils along the Lizandro River, where they enjoy a unique microclimate: during the growing season, afternoons are hot (averaging 30 degrees Celsius) while the mornings and evenings are more humid and prone to rainfall. Similar to Bordeaux, where the great sweet wines of Sauternes are made.

Galego Dourado (produced in minuscule quantities around Lisbon) is also prone to botrytis cinerea (aka noble rot) and is best-known for its role in making the sweet wines of Carcavelos. Small quantities are also grown in Colares, where the grapes are grown in the sand (literally). Gordon Ramsey highlighted Colares in his Uncharted television show on Nat Geo.

Our wine, on the other hand, was dry, highly aromatic (pears, honeysuckle, orange blossom), and rather full-bodied. The pairing was one of contrast as opposed to similarity, and I enjoyed it immensely. I felt fortunate to experience this wine, as it’s probably difficult to find in the States.

What’s Next?

Stay tuned for another unusual food and wine pairing. Our next adventure also highlights local seafood, but the flavor profile is quite different. And, of course, the wine has its own story!