Sixteen years ago, I visited Spain for the first time. My plan was to stay ten days; I ended up lingering there for four weeks. During the day I attended Spanish immersion classes, at night I was out on the town with school mates, who hailed from around the globe. My dreams became reality, and I didn’t want to wake up. Oh, Andalucia, I succumbed to all your charms!

Subsequent trips introduced me to the hustle and bustle of Madrid, the eye-popping artistry of Barcelona, and the dramatic, death-defying gorges of Ronda. All of them left indelible memories and gave me colorful stories to tell.

But no matter which city you visit, Spain has a way of seeping into your heart, working her magic on you slowly, subtly. Food, wine, music – and the warm, welcoming people – create an irresistible environment, one that you will dream about until the day you return. After that first adventure, it took me three weeks to unpack my suitcase, and I listened to Flamenco music every night. I blurted out my fledgling Spanish to anyone who would listen, yearning to be back in Spain again!

So, it should come as no surprise that when I was invited to learn more about (and taste) a few wines from Jumilla, a place I have not yet visited and whose wines I knew only from my studies, I was excited to dig in!

Where Is Jumilla?

Jumilla lies in southeastern Spain, in the province of Murcia. Its 22,400 hectares lie to the west of Valencia and northeast of Granada. The Mediterranean Sea is close but does little to modify the Continental climate of the region: hot, dry summers and cold winters are the norm, and the sun shines 3,000+ hours per year. Winds blow through the vineyards, checking humidity and reducing disease pressure on the vines. In fact, organic farming is common here, with approximately 70% of the DOP’s vineyards certified.

Many vines are planted at altitude between 320 and 1,000 meters above sea level, which also helps moderate high temperatures during the growing season. Soils are predominantly limestone and gravel, created by ancient mountain deposits dating to the late Miocene/Pliocene Era and the early Pleistocene Era. The deep alkaline soils retain water, offering a lifeline to the vines during a drought.

What About the Grapes?

Monastrell (aka Mourvèdre, Mataro) is king here, representing about 70% of DOP plantings. And for good reason: it loves heat and sunlight and needs plenty of both to ripen properly. A resilient variety, it tolerates drought and is resistant to phylloxera, a prime reason there are so many ungrafted, old-vine plantings in the region.

Other red grapes grown here include Tempranillo, Syrah, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. White grapes vary from Airén, Macabeo, and Malvasía to Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Sweet wines from Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel de Grano Menudo, and rosados (mostly from Monastrell) are also made.

The Land of High QPR Wines

Twenty years ago, Jumilla and its neighboring wine regions were better known for producing simple wines meant for bulk distribution. Well, things have changed!

The Jumilla DOP, created in 1966, has lately been on a steady march to improve the quality of its wines, urging winegrowers to bottle their best wines, those that offer a sense of place and history. Planting vineyards higher on the slopes, embracing organic farming principles, and managing yields, are all part of the plan.

In 1994, the regulatory body founded the Certamen de Calidad DOP Jumilla, the Jumilla DOP Wine Challenge. Open to all winegrowers in the region, the event includes two days of blind tastings conducted by administrators, members of the wine press, and fellow winemakers. It’s a chance to recognize the best local wines and to celebrate the collective progress of the region.

From my perspective, these wines are tremendous bargains. Each of my tasting samples carried a suggested retail price of $15-$30. All drank better than their price tags; a couple were exceptional. (See tasting notes, below.)

Come for the Wine, Stay for the Tour

As Jumilla wines have begun to generate more buzz, the interest in enotourism has increased too. Who wouldn’t enjoy spending a few days here, sampling the local culinary delights (paired with the perfect wines, of course) and delving into the ancient history (2,500+ years) of the region? Visit the nearby national parks to connect with nature, then take a winery tour.

It’s easy to do, thanks to the Jumilla Ruta del Vino. I’ve already bookmarked the site for future reference . . . 

Tasting Notes

2020 Bodegas Luzon Altos de Luzon (100% Monastrell from certified organic vineyards; 14.5% abv; $20-$25 SRP)

Deep purple color, almost black, this wine surprised me on the nose: vibrant red fruit (berries, cherries, plums) with a subtle hint of vanilla. On the palate, more red fruit, dried herbs; medium+ acidity and tannins (ripe) with a long finish of bittersweet chocolate. I wasn’t expecting such freshness and complexity. Made a winning match with stuffed portobellos with a balsamic glaze.

2018 Ego Bodegas Infinito (100% Monastrell; 15% abv; ~$18 SRP)

Dark red/purple color; powerful nose with ripe black fruit, licorice, grilled meat. Palate reflects the nose, with moderate acidity, medium+ grippy tannins, high alcohol, and medium+ finish, which again gives me bittersweet chocolate. My notes reminded me this wine needs to be slightly chilled, then decanted to give its best impression. And don’t forget to put out a plate of strong cheese or grill a big steak!

2017 Bodegas Carchelo Altico Vinedo Singular (100% Syrah; 14.5% abv; $15-$18 SRP)

Dark and brooding, it’s purple/black color is intense! On the nose there are ripe black fruit aromas (cherry, plum, berry) but it’s not as overtly ripe as the Infinito. The palate is beautifully balanced, with medium+ acidity to check the fruit; medium+ tannins (somewhere between grippy and smooth) and a complex finish with hints of vanilla. My favorite wine of the tasting, which suggests that these wines show better with few years on them. Just lovely.

2018 Bodega Sierra Norte Equilibrio 9 (100% Monastrell; 14.5% abv; ~$20SRP)

Fruit comes from 40- 70-year-old bush vines that are farmed organically (certified). The wine rests in barrel (combination of French and American oak) for nine months. Deep cherry red color, berry-cherry aromas along with notes of blossom and chalk. The palate is juicy and fun, higher acidity than expected, moderate tannins, long fruity/sweet finish. Fun wine, buy a few bottles for a party!

My takeaways from this tasting are simple:

• The wines of Jumilla deliver a lot for the price. I’d happily drink any one of them again.
• They love food! Meat, charcuterie, cheese, barbecue – let it rip!
• Don’t be dissuaded by the relatively high alcohol levels. Each of the wines was well-balanced, wearing the 14%-ish abv well.
• While I tasted red wines only, the region makes lovely, fresh white and rose wines, as well as complex sweet wines.
• Jumilla has an ancient history of winemaking, dating back 2,500 years!
• For more information on these and other wines, individual producers, and viticulture in the region, please check out Wines of Jumilla. It’s chock-full of great stuff!

Hmmm, what else . . .

Oh yeah, I’m already imagining my next trip to Spain. Can you guess where I’ll be going?

Many thanks to Wines of Jumilla, Cinco Sentidos Food & Wine Marketing, and April Cullom for providing the samples and giving me the opportunity to learn about these wines. Tasting notes are my own, and I received no other compensation for writing this piece.