Want to Step Up Your Holiday Wine Game? Try These Bottles!

Are you ready for the holidays?

You know, the time when as a Designated Wine Person, you prepare to do the impossible: please the multitude of palates attending Friendsgiving, Thanksgiving, Hanukkah parties, Christmas celebrations, etc., by selecting the “perfect wines” for the occasion. I’ve written previously about a similar conundrum facing DWPs when they’re at a restaurant with friends.

But the holidays are trickier, aren’t they?

There’s usually a buffet of dishes to choose from, all with different flavor/texture profiles, making it more difficult to find the wine(s) that will suit them all. And then there are the peculiar peccadillos of the guests themselves:

I only drink white wine . . .

I only drink red wine . . .

I hate Chardonnay but White Burgundy is my favorite wine!

You get the gist.

What’s a well-meaning DWP to do?

A Few Pointers on Bringing Wine for a Crowd

Choose a red, a white, and a sparkling wine (multiples of each if the crowd is large and/or thirsty.)

  • When selecting a red wine, remember that acidity is your friend. It enhances the flavors of the food and keeps your palate fresh and ready for the next bite. On the other hand, avoid high-alcohol, tannic wines. Unless you’re serving a super-rich meat dish, the food will get lost.
  • White wines that have minimal oak influence will be crisper and fresher, allowing them to play well with most dishes.
  • Rosé wines and most sparkling wines often hit the mark perfectly, as long as they are not overtly sweet.
  • Most important: buy one wine you know your host will enjoy. Bonus if the DWP also likes it. 😊

Recommendation: Wines from Alto Adige, Italy

I recently tasted a few wines from the Alto Adige (aka the Südtirol) region of Italy, a place known for its dramatic Alpine landscapes and unique culture. Once ruled by Austria, which lies immediately to the north, the region retains some of that influence: grape varieties have both Italian and German names, and many of the winegrowers have Austrian roots as well.

Because the growing season in Alto Adige is long and sunny yet cool, grapes ripen fully without losing acidity. You can taste it in the wines – literally! The white wines have tons of ripe apple and pear character but retain their freshness. Red wines tend toward tart red fruit flavors and are light on their feet. In both cases, they’re perfect food partners.

Vineyards at Abbazia di Novacella (producer photo)

About Kloster Neustift/ Abbazia di Novacella

Founded in the 12th century as an Augustinian abbey, this property includes multiple vineyards, each with soils suitable to particular grape varieties. On the slopes of Eisacktal (600 – 900 meters above sea level) white grapes (Sylvaner, Kerner, Riesling, Gruner Veltliner, Muller Thurgau, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and Gewurztraminer) thrive on gravelly moraine soils formed by glaciers during the Ice Age. Wines from these plots show pronounced minerality, high acidity, and ripe fruit character.

Red grapes are grown in slightly warmer areas: Lagrein, a more full-bodied red wine, comes from Bozen. Here, winds from the south fill the valley basin, creating a heat dome that ensures full phenolic ripening of red grapes. Schiava (aka Vernatsch) hails from yet another vineyard set atop the Uberetscher Plateau. Here the vines face north, where mountain breezes cool the grapes, allowing them to maintain high levels of acidity.

Wines are imported by Skurnik Wines and Spirits.

Tasting Notes:

Sylvaner is light, floral, and tangy. Perfect for a party!

2023 Sylvaner Classic Line

Pale lemon color with a lovely floral nose. Lots of citrus (lemon, grapefruit), white currants, and a hint of petrol, too. The palate is also quite floral with lemon curd, grapefruit peel, and a distinct mineral component. Very pretty wine! Made a great match with lemon-herb salmon. It would also be perfect as an aperitif.

The Milling Room in NYC: excellent food and an inspired wine list.
Heritage pork chop over white beans, bacon, and escarole. Delish!

2022 Schiava Classic Line

Pure red fruit deliciousness! This bottle wasn’t a sample – I found it on the wine list at The Milling Room here in New York City. My dining companions couldn’t get enough of it (and at $65 it’s a true bargain.) Crisp acidity, low in tannin, this went so well with the pork chops, duck breast, and steak tartare at the table. Schiava (aka Vernatsch) would be an excellent choice for your upcoming holiday events.

Lagrein and a hearty chicken and rice stew. Heartwarming and tasty.

2023 Lagrein Classic Line

Slightly fuller in body, this red wine was well-balanced and easy on the palate. Deep ruby/purple in color with a pronounced nose of black cherry, kirsch, plum, wild strawberry, and fennel. On the palate there’s tangy black and red fruit, lots of smooth tannins, and tart, refreshing acidity. A perfect sip with charcuterie and cheese, dried figs, walnuts. For the holiday table, it would be heaven with dark-meat turkey and your favorite stuffing.

Recommendation: Blaufränkisch from Austria

This wine is the Little Black Dress of the holiday season. Nowhere it can’t go!

2022 Weingut Esterházy Großhöflein Blaufränkisch Leithaberg DAC

Pale ruby-purple in color, with aromas of sweet plum, black cherry, rose petal. After 30 minutes in the glass, there is kirsch, raspberry, and ripe strawberry. On the palate it’s quite mild, with soft tannins, moderately high acidity. As it opened, I tasted blackberry, tomato skin, dried orange peel, and fresh ink. It’s a bit short in length but oh, so pleasant to sip! Maybe the MVP of the holiday season. Give it a chill, set it on the bar table, and watch it disappear – poof!

Want to stump a wine friend? Pour this blind and enjoy as they suss this one out!

2020 Weingut Dorli Muhr Carnuntum Ried Spitzerberg Blaufränkisch ($27.99 here)

Dense purple robe; the nose is shy at first, so decant it and let it sit. Then you’ll enjoy a floral medley complemented by red berry-cherry aromas. On the palate this wine is absolutely gorgeous! Tart red fruit (cherry, pomegranate) with a pleasant green note (tomato leaf, green pepper). Smooth tannins, moderately high acidity, exquisite balance. At times it reminded me of Gamay from one of the Beaujolais crus; some sips took me to well-structured, cool-climate Pinot Noir. All I know is it got better with every sip!

I hope you’re inspired to shake up your wine selection game by tracking down a few of these bottles for your upcoming holiday festivities. Each one fits well into the wine-selection pointers listed above, especially the final one: making sure that your host (and you) are sipping something delicious!

Note: With the exception of the Schiava, these wines were offered to me as media samples. I wasn’t paid for this post and, rest assured, all the opinions expressed are mine.

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